Spanish saint wrote on religious topics

This Toledo archbishop was also a caring shepherd, musician

St. Ildephonsus – January 23

- WCR photo by Ted Fitzgerald Twin Moorish-style towers flank the ochre-hued Merida Cathedral

By TED FITZGERALD
Special to the WCR
Merida, Mexico

The first cathedral built in the New World still dominates the main plaza in Merida, capital of Mexico's Yucatan state, and on each Jan. 23 the area's patron, San Illdefinso, is remembered in this, possibly the oldest continuously occupied city in the Americas.

It had been 23 years since Hernan Cortez arrived to begin the subjugation of Mexico and his Spaniards were still having problems converting the people of the Yucatan Peninsula to acceptance of the European presence.

Local Maya groups had consistently resisted assimilation until in 1542, a breakthrough was made when Tutul Xiu, powerful Lord of Mani, signed a pact to cooperate with Conquistador Francisco de Montejo at the city of Ichcaansiho or Tiho.

Momentous day

Because the momentous event took place on Jan. 23, the feast day of San Ildefonso, the district of Yucatan was officially placed under the protection of the seventh-century Spanish bishop.

Soon after, the newcomers began to rearrange old Tiho under the new name of Merida, selected because of a supposed resemblance of the Maya city to the ruins of the first century B.C. Roman city of Emerita Augusta, subsequently Merida, in Spain.

Montejo established his new capital of Yucatan around the existing central plaza of Tiho.

Dedication

Then, in 1562, newly-arrived Bishop Francisco Toral ceremoniously laid the cornerstone of the cathedral dedicated to San Ildefonso.

The saint was born in 607 in Toledo, Spain and, despite opposition from his wealthy parents, entered an area monastery and after serving as a humble monk, was appointed abbot and later ordained a priest.

About 657, he was named archbishop of Toledo, a post he held until his death 10 years later. In addition to a life as a dedicated pastor, he was an accomplished musician and is remembered for his writing on religious themes, treatises on Baptism, the virginity of Mary and biographies of contemporary churchmen.

It would be another 37 years before his huge Merida church was completed, built, as with most period Spanish buildings, from readily accessible limestone from the Maya structures of Tiho.

Today, the cathedral is one of the city's more prominent structures, facing west onto the landscaped Plaza Mayor, Merida's main square. The relatively plain rectangular structure is embellished with twin Moorish-style towers. Some of the severity of the edifice is softened by the warm yellow and ochre weathering hues of the recycled local limestone.

Sparse ornamentation

Interior ornamentation is limited, mainly due to several periods of looting during regional disturbances. An enormous crucifix fills the east wall behind the altar, while an historically significant painting shows local Mayan chieftains allying themselves with conquerors in 1542.

Merida's significant buildings are not limited to the cathedral. The oldest surviving residence, the 1543 Casa Montejo, also faces onto the Plaza Mayor and is noted for its elaborate plateresque portico and as the home of the founder's family.

Past and present

Remnants of a number of colonial monasteries and churches are scattered throughout the historic district. The city is also noted for its eating places and craft stores, as well as its many manicured little parks and boulevards.

Merida is the hub city for an area filled with famous Mayan and colonial sites and is a popular base for those desiring to explore for example, the ancient ruins of Uxmal, Chichen Itza with its famous cenote (natural well), Kahba, Labna, Mayapan or Sayil.

Spanish religious structures or their remnants can be visited at Dzibilchaltun, Mani or Campeche and of course, students of old Yucatan can, between day trips, indulge themselves in the exotic tropical cuisine of the old city.

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