Mexican gem honours St. James

Dominicans began construction in 1535

St. James – July 25

- WCR photo by Ted Fitzgerald Statue of church patron Santiago Apostol.

By TED FITZGERALD
Special to the WCR
Cuilapan de Guerrero, Mexico

The ruins of a great, unfinished monastery in Mexico's Oaxaca State are a popular tourist objective and are truly impressive. To the surprise of many, the towering sterile stone walls hide a real gem, a comfortable, homely parish church inconspicuously secreted among the sprawling 16th century Dominican abbey remains.

It is the church of Santiago Apostol (St. James the Apostle) on the outskirts of the village of Cuilapan de Guerrero, 13 km southwest of Oaxaca City.

Long before the local parish was established, this was the site of an extraordinarily ambitious missionary project. Members of the Dominican order would build a facility, dedicated to the Glory of God that would rival the great religious complexes of Mexico.

Begun in 1535, it would incorporate European elements, such as Spanish ladies portrayed on the church fa‡ade and a family tree of order founder Dominic Guzman, and an enormous basilica.

Stop work order

By 1550, construction costs began to increase and Spain's King Philip suggested that the project seemed contrary to the moderation and humility expected of a monastic order. Then, in 1570, the district landlord, the Marques del Valle, Hernando Cortez himself, sought a court injunction and had construction stopped.

- WCR photo by Ted Fitzgerald A tour group visits the monastic complex of Santiago.

Today, the unfinished buildings are a recognized state colonial monument and are visited by thousands each year. Visitors will gasp at the impressive, colonnaded roofless nave, the cloisters and the elaborate accommodations of the Exconvento de Santiago.

The only life to be found among the stark stonewalls is the small church dedicated to the apostle, the living heart of the complex.

When visitors there inquire of the people who come for a few moments of mid-afternoon prayer and meditation as to the presence of their patron, they will gladly be shown the statue of the apostle.

Represented by the only statue in the church sanctuary, he occupies a place of honour to the right of the altar. Santiago is attired in colourful green and violet robes, bears a shepherd's crook and a book and is surrounded by a profusion, in great variety, of fresh flowers.

James, with his brother John and Peter, are the more prominent apostles whose activities appear in the Gospels. They were witnesses to the Transfiguration and the agony in the garden and, in the case of the two brothers, are portrayed as impetuous and, in the beginning of their apostolate, self-serving.

Martyr for his faith

James was beheaded by Herod Agrippa in the year 44, becoming the first apostle to endure martyrdom.

Suitably impressed by the image of the people's patron, visitors experience an additional discovery as they are led back down the nave to be presented with another incarnation of the parish namesake. There, in an alcove surrounded by more fresh flowers, is the bearded image of the famed fierce crusader for the faith, Santiago Matamoras, armour-clad, mounted on a snow-white war horse, sword in hand, ready to prevail over the enemies of Christ.

Relics in Spain

Relics of St. James are thought to have been transported to Spain centuries after his death where they become the basis of the great medieval pilgrimage destination of Compostela and his new warrior image. The people of Cuilacan happily embrace both appellations of their saint in their modest church.

After a final few minutes of silent prayer in the placid sanctuary of Cuilacan, visitors exploring the area often opt to seek out and pause at nearby Zaachila for a light repast at popular Restaurante La Capilla where local specialties might include mole (chocolate) enchiladas and the sinfully thick, sweet Caf‚ de Olla, seething with brown sugar and cinnamon.

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